June 5, 2005

“I believe there are angels among us.”

We got a late start as I ordered a couple of items from Adventure Cycling Association which is in Missoula, MT and I was scheduled to meet someone at their office around 11:00 AM. Danny (the guy I was supposed to meet) wasn’t there yet but Tattoo saw a door open and I was able to get the items from another employee who was in on Sunday catching up on some work. I purchased two reflective safety triangles to put on the back of our bikes as I was concerned about our being visible in the rain a couple of days ago. I purchased one for me and gave one to Nick as his belated birthday present. Nick got another present as ACA gives anyone who shows up at their offices a free six month membership. Nick signed up.

Outside the ACA office we met another touring cyclist named Joe Boden. Joe is 62 and is retracing a ride he did 30 years ago all around the country. It’s a 14,000 mile epic journey north and south, east and west. He is doing it solo. We only chatted for a few minutes, as we were anxious to get on the road. In our haste we neglected to get a picture of Joe or the ACA office sign. Joe is also carrying a laptop GPS and camera. I gave him my e-mail address and asked him to send me a note so I can get his. I will ask him for a picture of himself when he writes. I’ll also give him my log link. It will be interesting to follow his ride also as we travel.

It was 72 degrees and sunny when we left Missoula winds were slight, head to cross. We lathered ourselves with sunscreen and were on our way. We had lunch about 12 miles in at a roadside gas station - - convenience store - -café - - saloon – gambling establishment. There were others there eating lunch and playing Keno with the numbers being called out by a women at a small table by the door. A couple of young bucks in cowboy hats came in and played pool. These two were the real deal. My guess is that they probably worked at the Paws Up Ranch which we passed another 10 or so miles down the road.

The weather started turning sour about a half hour after lunch. We could see high dark clouds forming in the mountains to our side. The forecast was for “afternoon thunder storms, some of which could be severe”. A guy at another table at breakfast at the Holiday Inn said, “Typical”.

Blackfoot River

Our plan for the day was to reach Lincoln, MT, a 78 mile ride which was doable as we just had a time change and being at the far end of the time zone sunset (according to my GPS) is at 9:23 this far north. When we got to around 40 miles west of Lincoln the winds cooled, shifted to tail, and became fairly stiff. From what I read from other’s logs that meant storms were closely following. As we were climbing in elevation going up beside the Blackfoot river it was hard to average more that 12.5 MPH. When it started raining I mentioned to Nick that we should start considering our options. We talked about in and decided to pick up the pace and still shoot for Lincoln. We suited up in rain gear and continued on. There was lightning in the mountains to our left side. Gradually the rain became heavier and the tail winds stronger until before we knew it we were in the middle of a nasty storm which included light hail. At that point Nick checked the map which showed lodging at a town called Ovando. As the rain became really heavy we were being hosed by the water, from the depressions in the road from vehicle wear, as vehicles passed us. These wheels were shooting off walls of water. It wasn’t fun.

It got really nasty when we had about seven miles to get to Ovando. This was the first time I saw that Nick was fit to ride. I was in the aero bars pushing a high cadence and we were flying along being helped by the winds and the rain pushing our backs. I was working really hard to stay with Nick.

Just before we reached the road to Ovando the hail became heavier. It was like being in a B.B gun fight with you opponent being armed with a machine gun. As we turned right on the road the rain and sleet was almost vertical from our right and now we were being pelted from the side.

Ovando, population 71, is not much of a place. It is laid out like an old western town. We rode up to a building called Blackfoot Commercial Company – Inn – Est. 1897. The doors were locked, there were no lights on inside and we knocked on the door in vain. Nick commented: “Great, we’re in the middle of a freaking ghost town.”

I looked around for any building that might have inhabitants. We were under the porch of the building which had two benches and were considering sleeping on them. I walked across the road (about 50 yards) to what looked like a home. As I opened the gate to the yard I was weary that I might be attacked by dogs, as a gate usually means fencing something in or out. When I reached the door there was a sign which read: “I believe there are angels among us.” I said to myself: “Yes! We're in!.”

Howard Fly the Innkeeper lived in the home and opened the Inn for us. Actually it is a bed and breakfast - - gas station - - general store. As we went in Nick noticed a framed shirt signed by Lance Armstrong. He is friends with a rancher in the area and does some charity stuff up here. I wonder if I will be sleeping in the same bed that Lance slept in. I’ll ask in the morning.

We would be the only occupants that evening. Howard allowed us to buy some items from the general store. He wrote the items down by hand on a pad. Item: amount, item amount: total. [This is something I have not seen since I was a small boy and I would go the “The Little Red Store” with my mom to pick up a few things.] He said we could "settle up" in the mourning. We bought some pasta and sauce and made ourselves a fine dinner. The Inn is quite nice. Clean, warm, and spacious.

I too believe there are angels among us.

Jim

Cycledog (Ride the extra mile!!)

© 2005 - JNS